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Visiting my roots in Paris, France

The Eifell tower by night
The Eiffel tower by night
Lennart in Arlanda airport
Lennart in Arlanda airport
Since 508 A.D, Paris is the capital of France, the largest country of Western Europe with 550 000 km2 (the second in population with 65 millions inhabitants). Paris has 2.234 million inhabitants end 2011. She is the core of the Paris metropolitan area, officially known as Ile de France region (12 million people). 

Each year, 44 million tourists visit Paris and the surrounding Ile de France region. Paris is year after year the most visited city in the world.
The top Paris attractions are Disneyland Paris (15 million visitors each year), Notre Dame Cathedral (13.6), the Sacre Coeur (10,5), the Louvre Museum (9), the Eiffel Tower (6.180), Versailles Palace (6), Centre Pompidou (5) and the Cite des Sciences (3).

So with that said, Lennart and I decided to visit Paris in late 2013. The general plan was to have a nice time but also visit my roots in my own little way.


Father's place

Back in the late 50's, my mother used to hang out in the bohemian quarters of Montparnasse, a part of the city's 14th arrondissement. This district is traditionally known for lively cafés and restaurants around the Boulevard du Montparnasse and the rue Daguerre. Even myself prefer this part of Paris. This time we stayed at Hotel De L'Orchidee conveniently located near the metro station Pernety in the heart of Montparnasse. The objective with this day was to visit the neighborhood where my father lived when he met my mother. 

Note! Click on images to see slideshow and captions!
Breakfast at the hotel
As usual I never do anything half hearted. I always eat like it would be my last meal.
Lennart though, is more moderate with his intake of food
Our hotel in the very heart of Paris
The weather this day was chilly and a bit cloudy
I was in charge of the navigation. We were heading for Bd Edgar Quinet. I knew they use to have a street market there.
The street market on Bd Edgar Quinet. This is the area where my mother and father used to hang out back in the days.
Here you will find everything for your dinner
Meat in long rows
Oysters in different shapes and styles
Endless amount of seafood
Mmm yummy... I wish we had this in Sweden
Delicious grilled chicken
Finally some hot meals available
Rue d'Odessa straight ahead. It was here my mother had her love story with my father. I guess they often visited those cafés.
Rue d'Odessa 10, my father lived here with his parents when he was dating my mother.
I have been told, they had a very small apartment here, only one bedroom. Imagine... my grandparents, my mother and father in one bedroom apartment. But later they all moved out to the suburbs of Paris.
Bikes for rent, similar to those we have in Stockholm.
Oh my God, what is this?
Is it alive or what?
No... it was not alive this time. But here in Paris you never know, there can be surprises in every corner!

Finding your love in Paris?

Paris is known to be the city of love and romance. Could that really be true? Hmm what do I know? In any case, that is nothing I have experienced lately. But obviously my mother found her love here in Paris so maybe that would be possible even for me. So Lennart and I went to the Jardin du Luxembourg to find out!

Note! Click on images to see slideshow and captions!
So off we go. We are heading for Le Jardin du Luxembourg. But first we pass this place, La Terrasse du Laurier.
Jardin du Luxembourg, is the second largest public park in Paris. In the park there is also a big palace which was built by King Louis XIII. Mmm, this sounds like it could be a nice and romantic place!
Well, here is the park and the palace. But it looks very empty and desert. Maybe because of the chilly weather there is no people here. The timing is obviously important, too chilly weather, no romantic girls around...
The Gardens came about as a result of Henri IV's assassination in 1610. His wife, Marie de Medicis, could not continue living in the Louvre with his memory. She had the Palais du Luxembourg and the surrounding gardens built to replicate her childhood home, Florence’s Palazzo Pitti. The Luxembourg Gardens were completed in 1625, but did not reach their present dimensions until 1790.
Some weird activities is going on nearby
Renting a sailboat, that can be a perfect activity on the first date I think!
A typical mother and son activity
An even more typical father and son activity
Feeding the birds, is a nice activity for all established couples with or without children
This couple whom obviously already found their love, needed help with doing a selfie. Of course I helped them out, as the gentleman I am!
Flowers in front of the palace which now houses the French Senate
Pretty flowers
There are plenty of chairs all around the park waited to be seated
During the 19th century the palace was extensively remodeled: the garden facade was added (1836-41) by Alphonse de Gisors, and a cycle of paintings (1845-47) by Eugène Delacroix was added to the library. The building was a prison during the Revolution, used for the peace conference of 1946, and now houses the French Senate.
This woman was clearly the only one in sight who was standing alone but on the other hand she was guarded by watchful eyes nearby...
The watchful eyes on duty
Oh! What is this? Hmm is she available...?
Hmm... nope she was clearly too busy in doing her thing and showed no interest whatsoever apart from her abs...
A group of foreign tourists easily recognisable with orange markers
I am imaging Lennart is thinking: Patrik, this is hopeless! You will not find your love here today. So stop it!
The conclusion: Park de Luxembourg is absolutely suited for the first date when you already have met someone. But finding your love here, hmm I don't know. At least not this time of the year. Too chilly and deserted. The only woman I met here was this lady. Probably a very cold and quiet personality and without any future quarrels, I presume!
So I had to stop my searching for this time. Instead we were having a late lunch and planning our next moves in our trip.

We visit another romantic place

We decided to go for the bridges over the river Seine. Many of them I think are very romantic places but one in particular, Pont des Art would qualify as the number one.

Note! Click on images to see slideshow and captions!
On our way along the river Seine we passed many bouquinistes. They are booksellers of used and antiquarian books who ply their trade along large sections of the banks of the Seine.
Now we can see Pont des Art in the distant
You can see that we begin to approach this special bridge
The Pont des Arts or Passerelle des Arts is a pedestrian bridge in Paris which crosses the River Seine. It links the Institut de France and the central square of the Palais du Louvre.
But there is something special with this bridge that I never seen anywhere before...
Yes, love padlocks... a totally massive amounts of love padlocks. Each padlock representing a loving couple.
In recent years, many tourist couples have taken to attaching padlocks (love locks) with their first names written or engraved on them to the railing or the grate on the side of the bridge, then throwing the key into the Seine river below, as a romantic gesture. This gesture is said to represent a couple's committed love.
The City of Paris has not yet adopted a definitive policy on how to deal with this new fad. The French police have been known to patrol this bridge to stop keys from being thrown into the river.
In March 2014, two American women living in Paris launched an online no-love-locks campaign to remove the padlocks from the bridge.
They say that the bridge became physically damaged by the weight of the locks (93 metric tons of metal), by the rust that passes onto the River Seine and by the environmental damage to the river from the keys that are thrown in and rusting. The campaign received more than 1600 signatures in one month.
Ok, stand still please!
Smile...?
Hmm let's see... if it's ok...
Between 1802 and 1804, under the reign of Napoleon I, a nine-arch metallic bridge for pedestrians was constructed at the location of the present day Pont des Arts: this was the first metal bridge in Paris.
In 1976, the Inspector of Bridges and Causeways (Ponts et Chaussées) reported several deficiencies on the bridge. More specifically, he noted the damage that had been caused by two aerial bombardments sustained during World War I and World War II and the harm done from the multiple collisions caused by boats.
The bridge would be closed to circulation in 1977 and, in 1979, suffered a 60 metre collapse after a barge rammed into it.
The present bridge was built between 1981 and 1984 "identically" according to the plans of Louis Arretche, who had decided to reduce the number of arches from nine to seven, allowing the look of the old bridge to be preserved while realigning the new structure with the Pont Neuf.
Hmm I think this is amazing...
We have a similar phenomena in Stockholm on one of our bridges, Västerbron. But the magnitude is not compatible with this... on Västerbron there might be a couple of hundred love locks at most.
This is from Västerbron in Stockholm as I mentioned in the previous picture. The view over the central of Stockholm is astonishing but rather few love locks.
View over river Seine
Even up here in the light pole you find padlocks
Quick facts: Pont des Art is an arch bridge made of steel. It has a total length of 155 m (509 ft) and a width of 11 m (36 ft)
The next bridge you can see in the distant is Pont Neuf
Pont Neuf is also a beautiful bridge but not that romantic though

The sad story about my father's grave

The objective with this day was to:
1) Visit the neighborhood where I spent some time when I was a kid. 
2) Visit my father's grave located somewhere in Rueil-Malmaison.

As I wrote before, my father, his parents and my mother lived in Montparnasse, the central of Paris. Since the apartment was too small for them they decided to move out to Rueil-Malmaison. This place is a commune in the western suburbs. It is located 12.6 km from the centre of Paris. Later when my father died he was buried in a cemetery located not far from this new apartment in the suburb.

Since my mother is a little bit forgetful these days I had not much to go after. I had my own vague memories from the days I was a kid 5-10 years old. Later in life I have been here a couples of times, the last time maybe when I was in my golden age of 30. Together with my memories I knew the address to the apartment, it was Résidence les Taratres. Concerning the cemetery I didn't know the name nor the the location. So obviously there was not much to go after. But despite the odds we decided to have a go!

Note! Click on images to see slideshow and captions!
We took the RER train to station Rueil-Malmaison. So far so good. I remembered we used to take the bus from here but that seemed a bit tricky. It was difficult both to find out which bus to take and also know where to get off.
From the RER station to Résidence les Taratres the distance was only 3.6 km. We decided it was easier to walk instead of take the bus. So just another day in paradise! The whole area was very nice, for example look at this nice painted house!
Finally we arrived to Résidence les Taratres. Despite it was many years since my last visit, I rather quickly located the house where I had been so many times as a kid.
Nearby we found a nice Chinese restaurant where we had our lunch. Now it was time planning the next step. To find the cemetery where my father was buried. I had no name of the cemetery, no location, no nothing... just my memory. The only thing I knew, it was somewhere not that far from this place.
After lunch we consulted Google maps. We discovered there were two cemeteries on roughly the same distance from our current location. So we just had to pick one and start walking again.
We started with Cimetière Parc du Mont-Valèrien. Just 2 km walk from Résidence les Taratres, where we had have our lunch. But when we arrived there I suspected the worst...
Hmm... I didn't recognize this place. The conclusion was obvious. The wrong cemetery. We went back and further to the other cemetery. Just additional 4 km. Nothing for two old horses like Lennart and me.
Finally we arrived to Cimetière les Bulvis. Yes here it was! But problem nr 2, how to find the exact location of the grave? It turned out not to be that easy. I had to consult an older man, little bit grumpy, sitting in the office of the cemetery. He couldn't speak english and sorry to say my French is a little bit rusty. Finally he got my point. He searched in the files on his computer... but nothing. I started to despair. Had we come this long way in vain?
He saw my desperation so he searched on the computer again, but nothing. Suddenly he changed his tactic. In a locked cabinet, he had some very old hand written books... After some more searching and some muttering, he finally found it! Off we went, he accompanied us to the spot where the grave was supposed to be. But there was something seriously wrong! This was not my father's grave!
The poor man was probably as confused as me and he just muttered two sentences: Ce n'est pas bon! Ce n'est pas bon du tout! (This is not good! This is not good at all!) So back to the office we went. The grumpiness of the man was now gone, instead he was eager to help me out as best as he could. He made some phone calls and finally came to the conclusion that the grave was now replaced. In 1996 they removed the remains and the gravestone of my father and replaced it with a new diseased.
My father's grave 1964, to the right.
Gilbert Coen is now resting in the same spot as my father did. But it's ok I can live with that. Notice the grave immediately to to left, you can see the very same grave in the next picture which was taken around 1964.
Another picture of my father's grave from 1964. The grave to the left is still there today.
Every grave which is replaced ends up here. Remains, gravestone... everything.
This is my father, the picture taken in the early fifties. Claude Coudoré (1930 -1961) Rest in peace.
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  • Travel Blog
  • About
    • Me
    • Professional Life
    • Sweden
  • Contact
  • Other Pics & Stories
    • Hiking >
      • Hiking Kebnekaise
      • Hiking 2006
    • Europe >
      • Nice, France
      • Visiting my roots in Paris
    • Philippines >
      • Mt Pinatubo
      • Video clips Above ground
    • Tanzania
    • Thailand >
      • Notes from Thailand 2006-2007
      • Bangkok
      • Hua Hin
      • Ko Phi Phi
      • Temples
      • Fishing in Udon
    • Food >
      • Food, one of life's necessities
      • My Recipes
    • Sweden Off Road Tour 1999